Forming the land link joining North and South America, these seven countries not only exert a powerful lure to the overland traveler, but reward those who come this way with an amazing variety of cultural, historical and scenic experiences. Whether traveling from the north or the south, Central America is much more than simply a means to an end, but is truly a worthy end unto itself. How to sum up our feelings about Central America? It is wonderfully alive: aggressive, vibrant, colorful, difficult, engaging, full of contrasts, aggravating, geographically diverse and full of surprises, and, most of all beautiful.
As I sit here writing this I am looking at a lovely swimming pool surrounded by lush foliage; monkeys and macaws and parrots are nearby, to say nothing of guinea hens pecking away in the grass; palm trees are giving welcome shade to La Tortuga; the bright sunlight is tempered by a strong breeze to keep us cool under the palapa. We are staying at the only RV campground in Panama. Pretty nice, huh! However, the rest of the story: someone has been burning brush for days, making the air smoky and the coach smelly; the road to get here (the Pan-American highway) was filled with crazy drivers, had poor signage except for zillions of billboards, and was often in fairly lousy condition; some invisible critter has taken a liking to and is busy making a welt on my arm; and nothing will dry because of the humidity. Now THAT’S Central America!
In general, there’s a lot to like. The short skirts and high heels favored by the women in the more cosmopolitan areas have Rick smiling; I think the men are gorgeous. The countryside is so often green and lush; the mountains are high; there are plenty of streams to enjoy; agriculture is plentiful and if the soil is good the produce is huge as well as tasty. Ranching and dairy cattle are big in several countries; we often saw large ranches with fat cattle and beautiful horses. Bright colors are everywhere, in the homes and stores; the local clothes; the blue plastic bags hanging on the ripening bananas in the plantations; and let’s not forget the chicken buses, which could never be mistaken for their counterparts in the United States. The liveliness of the roadside is charming: herds of goats and horses and cattle, bullocks in harness, troops of pigs – all vying for space with you; and they sure think they need all the room.
A land of contrasts: beautiful flowers along dirty, dusty, pot-holed roads; gracious colonial architecture and remaining ruins alongside truly ugly modern apartments and office buildings; in the cities you often see great poverty, but in the countryside the people are generally very industrious with whole families working hard in the fields, often on very steep hillsides.
Some trends we noticed as we traveled further south: The countries appear to be less indigenous. The square (zocolo) is still the center of town activities, but it evolves from a park in front of the church to a futbol (soccer) field and play park. Taxis start out as three wheeled tuk-tuks or variations thereof, and by the time you are in Costa Rica they are modern cars. The amount of trash along the roads varies from country to country, but is generally somewhat less of an issue than in Mexico, with collection people seen in several countries.
Some givens: new experiences are always exciting, although there are always some bad days in any journey; colonial areas in cities are always beautiful, even if they have the usual slums; and Central American coffee is wonderful everywhere (except to those who prefer tea). The map you are using will never be quite right; however, this gives you chances to explore places you didn’t know you were going to see. So, life is in balance. And volcanoes are always cool.
But for me (Kathy), the single defining event of time in Central America was asking a middle-aged man in El Salvador for directions. His wonderfully wrinkled, weathered face lit up (when he finally understood what I was asking in my mangled Spanish), and in his strong voice and with a huge grin and wide gestures, he pointed me on my way. I will always treasure that moment.