So what’s a Border Bastard?
This message both begins and ends with them, so stay tuned…..
We arrived in Chile and were instantly jolted into a new era. The border crossing was unlike any over the last many, many months. Chile takes its agricultural products seriously, and also – apparently – its lack of fruit flies. For the last week or so we were in Peru we regularly saw billboards proclaiming Sin Moscas de las Frutas. This was cool; we are from California and know how important this is. We were used to eating all the oranges before coming back across the border from Arizona. But this was more than that: We knew what was coming and had concentrated on eating down our suspect supplies, but still… he (Bastarde de la Frontera Numero Uno) took my apples, my tomato, my lettuce, my carrots, my honey, my eggs, my raisins, my bag of dried fruit I use in muffins. He left me my cheese (really horrid Peru cheese I actually tried to get him to take), my milk, and my butter. It was brutal. (Normally we don’t arrive at a suspect border with this kind of stuff aboard; we crossed a day earlier than I had anticipated.)
First a dog came into the coach and (presumably) sniffed for drugs – he didn’t want the cheese either. Then this big, actually-quite-charming brute took over, opening every cupboard and drawer, pulling things apart, and finally asking me for a bag to put the contraband stuff into so he could take it away. It felt like a full body search. (Can you tell I’ve written this just after it happened?)
Something you might not know: skinny little Chile has its own time zone; it’s on Atlantic Time. When you cross on into Argentina, then you are on Greenland Time (doesn’t that sound exotic). With one caveat: during the summer, Chile is on the equivalent of Daylight Savings Time. Upshot is that when you cross from Peru into Chile this time of year (November) you jump two time zones; might as well have gone straight into Argentina (Kathy, you can’t go straight from Peru to Argentina; ed. Yeah, well, whatever.)
Later: The tires happened. The local dealer had three on hand, joy of joys, and the others were bussed in from Santiago. You have asked us how our Spanish is doing these days? Rick was able to transact the entire purchase, including discussing kinds of tires, where they would come from, alternative ways of getting them here (or us going after them), all in Spanish with several people who spoke no English! You go, Rick!!
While waiting for the Santiago tires to arrive (4-5 days) we saw the sights of Arica (including our first fast food in over a month!) and visited a very nice museum right outside of town. It is a good archeological and ethnographical museum, and contains the oldest mummies in the world. We were interested in them, but weren’t as impressed as we had expected to be; we had been so enthralled with the ones we saw in Leymebamba in Peru that these seemed rather ordinary. Not fair to them!
Think: 15,000 feet high, and those are the feet underneath you. The mountains are waaay up there; many of them are volcanoes; many are covered in snow all year round. The ground is barren except for this low grass stuff and something hard and green that looks like moss but bears no relation. It’s dry – very dry. Sound dreary? It isn’t. There are wetland areas with multitudes of birds, including flamingos in varying stages of pink. Have you ever seen the movie Winged Migration? We felt like some scenes must have been filmed right where we were camping. There are also llamas and alpacas and vicunas (part of the park is a preserve, which has brought the vicunas back from near extinction) – and sheep too. In one corner of the park is a salt pan, the Salar de Surire. We wandered and took pictures; I got to see my first salt flat. Rick, a veteran of the Bonneville Salt Flats generation, was unimpressed.
This is a lovely corner of Chile. It is the far north corner, right on the border with Bolivia. In fact, in the morning, the road we wanted to take through the park started beyond a customs checkpoint almost into Bolivia. We skirted an enormous line of trucks waiting to be cleared, hoping nobody was coming in our direction on this wee road, then Rick talked to the police in order to identify our road, just in sight past the check point, so that we could start on the day’s adventure. This road would take us to the Vicuna Preserve and to Salar de Surire. We saw lots of camelids along the way, and even a new bird, the Nandu, kind of like a squirrely ostrich. We were enjoying ourselves.
A delightful serendipity, though: in Arica, while shopping at the local Hiper Lider (lots of Safeway products should tell you who the parent company is), we had run into a couple from the Boston area. We had a nice chat, and found they were heading into the mountains for a few days. Waved good-by, and went on. Well, we ran into them again, on the road to the Salar de Surire. After more lovely chat, and hugs, we waved good-by, and went on. It had been delightful to see American faces and share experiences. They had flown in and were traveling by rental car; we wished each other well.
We spent one last night on this beach north of town. This is a great spot. We are just beyond where the pavement stops along this road; it seems we are just at the beginning of a military (army) installation of some sort. The guys don’t care that we are there. They jog by in the mornings sometimes. But mostly they drive their trucks back and forth from here to somewhere, very industriously, a few times a day. They look like outcasts from a Desert Storm movie. But cute butts. Anyway, the beach is quite lovely, and very quiet at night. The birds swoop around and make some noise; otherwise there’s little going on and we can sit and enjoy the stars, to say nothing of the lights of Arica in the distance. We have been very happy here.
I should also comment that, after ten countries worth of seeking out a cajera automatico when we needed funds, apparently in Chile an ATM is called an Autodinero. Easier to translate and to pronounce. Also diesel has been less expensive here than in Peru, and gasoline, for a change, is slightly less than diesel, making it much less than in Peru.
The tires had arrived on time, the fellows at Goodyear were waiting for us, and by early afternoon we were on our way, heading south. Wow!
Now no one needs to tell you that Chile is long and skinny; it has only one main north-south road, the Panamericana. There are east-west roads that pop you up into the Andes; some of them cross into Argentina. But you cannot travel south through the high mountains, as you can along the Andean spine further north. So the Panam it is, mostly. Through part of northern Chile there is also a secondary, coastal road, which we took when we could. The Panam sometimes travels along the coast, but more often it is up a few thousand feet, along the pre-cordillera plateau. This is not particularly interesting countryside, but the road is good, there is little traffic, and we can cover some ground.
We were able to go along the coast for several days, which was great, a real treat. If you’ve stayed with us over the years, we really bad-mouth beaches. But Chile is different. We managed to spend several nights on the beach as we moved south, and enjoyed every one of them. They are clean, the weather is in the low 70s these days, there aren’t a bunch of flies, and the coast is lovely. Kind of reminds us of northern California and Oregon, without any trees. Very barren and rugged; it looked lunar to us, and we were enchanted.
We passed through several towns/cities along the coast, most quite uninteresting. We did like Taltal, which was quiet and clean, with lots of people out enjoying the evening air, and had a pretty malecon (boardwalk area) along the beach; we camped there for the night. And outside Tocopilla, we encountered their golf course, an amazing sight. It is completely sand, with no grass whatsoever. The “greens” are packed down sand, and they have plastic palm trees set in the ground around them. Weird or what???
Chile is a series of different regions as you move south; some of them have customs stops at their border. At one, Rick got an unexpected laugh from the young ladies handling the paperwork. They asked, in Spanish, if he spoke any Spanish and of course he answered muy poquito as we always do. They then rattled off a question he was able to recognize as being about how many personas we were. When he answered dos, they started giggling and carrying on that the gringo speaks pretty good Spanish after all. We do manage to get by.
Either on the coast or inland we just kept moving. Our last night heading south to La Serena, we didn’t quite make it. We stopped about 75 miles north of there, just below the crest of a hill, taking a little road that led to one of the observatories in this area. (The air is so clear here that many international groups have set up observatories; we will try and visit one next time we come through). We spent a beautiful, quiet night under zillions of stars, enjoying the high desert. We saw what we assumed was Orion’s Belt, but it had a bunch of funny stars around it and it was in a strange place, so who knows; the southern sky at night!
La Serena is a pretty town, warm and friendly. It reminded us very much of the Santa Barbara area, with jacarandas and hibiscus in bloom; tiled roofs over whitewashed stucco; and we had suddenly entered the wine region. Awesome! It has been over 2 months since we’ve been seeing green, in northern Peru. We were stoked. Rick says the women are prettier; I think maybe the fact that there was an international women’s soccer meet going on might have helped.
We puttered around town for awhile, doing internet and grocery shopping, and thinking that all the bookstores were closed at a weird time (this was when we discovered about the Chilean summer time change), then trekked on to Vicuna, halfway up this lovely valley, where we spent the night on a hillside looking down on all the vineyards. The next morning I visited the Vicuna Saturday farmer’s market, which so reminded me of the ones I was used to in the States; under tents, with the locals bringing their canvas bags to fill with produce, people hugging each other upon seeing them after a week’s absence, hippies selling weird stuff. Rick went back to the internet place and downloaded some iPod programs to listen to the next time we got bored driving.
So, to paraphrase The Stranger in The Big Lebowski, “Sometimes you choose the left turn and sometimes the left turn chooses you.” It seems we were going to have to take a different road into Argentina.
We had two choices: go back to the coast and come down far enough to pick up the next road across the mountains, or come down an inland road we’d noticed. We chose the inland route, which came with recommendations from the Moon Guy. (Moon Guy is the fellow who wrote our guidebook: Moon Books Guide to Chile; this series is our absolute favorite for information on the various countries we are visiting; we recommend them highly.) It seems this route would follow at least some of the old railroad line through the area, and would stay in the foothills rather than returning to the coast.
As we got nearer to Santiago’s influence, there were more communities, more apparent middle class, and less of interest. We were dumped from our lovely little road into mid-town traffic in San Felipe, but eventually found Route 60, the road we would be taking over the Andes into Argentina.
After threading our way through the suburbs, we were out in the country again, heading up the pass. We spent a last night (for real this time) beside a mountain river, then climbed-climbed-climbed up the pass toward the border.
And then Bastarde de la Frontera Numero Dos got me. A basic repeat of when we entered Chile except that this time we did not expect it. Now you tell me why, when Chile won’t let any contaminated products in, and therefore everything we were taking into Argentina had been purchased in Chile and was, therefore presumably pristine and virginal, Argentina took it all away from me at their border. Why? Why? Why? I have recovered, of course, and life goes on and all that, but damn!
Anyway, we are now in Argentina, where we will stay for awhile. It was a short excursion into northern Chile, but we enjoyed ourselves. The northern part of the country is quite obviously different from the “heartland” (we don’t know anything about southern Chile yet, of course, except that is supposed to be exceptionally beautiful); much closer in feel to Peru, and very obviously quite isolated; actually it seemed to us that they were proud of their distance from the rest of the country – very self-sufficient and needing no one else. Nice to watch. The northern third of Chile is also the famous Atacama desert, quite literally the driest place on earth. The land is so completely barren of visible life that we had to compare it to some of our least favorite desert areas in the states -- places like Mojave in California, or west Texas -- only this was even more barren. Then, as we moved further south and began to see a little scrub brush and cactus, we realized what a difference that made; how lively and colorful it all seemed by comparison. A mini education in different levels of desertness.
Ah well, we move on, adapt to new currency and customs, and continue moving south. Patagonia beckons.
Our best to all for a wonderful holiday season.
Rick, Kathy and La Tortuga con zapatos nuevos.
Click here to view more pictures from Northern Chile