Here’s another one for you: Australopithicus nomadicus. Guess what? That’s US!!! Who knew we would become so exotic as to have Latin names? (compliments of our good friend Mabelle Lernoud) “Austral” is a word that refers to “south,” in this case the southern hemisphere; while “nomad”… well, guess there’s no surprise there. We like the phrase, but you can still call us Rick & Kathy if you like. Oh, the picture to the right is of the map on the side of La Tortuga. It pretty much tells the tale.
Emerging from the park, we headed for the border through this very rural part of Chile, and had a simple, straightforward, easy border crossing above the small town of Icalma. No agricultural inspection; muy bueno! This crossing put us back along the edge of Laguna Aluminé, which we had visited a few weeks earlier. It also directed us down through Junin and Bariloche and El Bolsón again. We did skip going through lovely San Martín de los Andes, by taking an alternate route further east; this took us through some much more barren countryside, reminding us of eastern Washington State, but it followed a lovely river and went through some very nice rock formations; not all bad. Beautiful country, but this time we merely passed through; we were very anxious to resume our journey down to the bottom of South America.
You won’t be surprised to hear we gave Bariloche a bit of a wide berth; but we wanted to spend more time in El Bolsón, so we stopped there. Sadly, the lovely and charming town we had enjoyed so much in December was now jammed full of backpackers and their guitars and piles of litter; the kids are great, don’t misunderstand me; but after our recent experience we’re really into avoiding crowds, so we just went on. Such a gorgeous area, right on the eastern edge of the Andes; but we really recommend visiting other than in January and February. Staying in the mountains, we moved south as far as Esquel (which was a town we really liked), then plunged eastward, across the pampas toward the Atlantic Ocean.
Receiving good advice, we had picked a road (Rte. 25) across that we can heartily recommend. It crosses Argentina through an area variously referred to as “badlands” or “like Bryce Canyon” and it was quite interesting. We followed the Chubut River for much of the way, and it was a good choice. An extra bonus: since we were traveling from west to east, we had a strong tail wind the whole way, and got the best mileage we’ve ever seen from La Tortuga – just a smidge under 20 mpg. A side benefit of the traditionally fierce Patagonian winds.
Reaching the Atlantic at Trelew, we checked out the paleontology museum there (small but quite nice, with some incredibly complete skeletons). We chose not to go north to Puerto Madryn and the Valdez Peninsula, huge tourist areas that are very crowded right now; maybe at a quieter time of the year. Then we began the plunge down toward the bottom of the hill. Route 3 is the main road, but for starters we decided to take a parallel road (Route 1) that turned out to be good gravel, very light on traffic, and would take us to the Punta Tombo Provincial Reserve and – pinguinos.
Moving south, we spent the first of several days traveling down the isolated Atlantic coastline, sometimes within sight of the ocean, but with land that was always becoming increasingly barren. We are not finding it unpleasant , the evaluation of other travelers; it is somewhat similar to the barren areas in the far north of Alaska and the Northwest Territories. We like the distant view, the scrubby but rugged plants, and the occasional views of rheas, guanacos, wild hares and other critters in the distance. We spent the night on a bluff overlooking a quiet bay; charming views and strong breezes. One advantage of our route however was that we missed a lot more of this countryside to the north. Many European überlanders ship their vehicles to Buenos Aires and head south from there. Route 3 runs for more than 3,000 kilometers from BA down to Ushuaia, most of it pampas; we joined the route at about km 1750, a point where travelers doing the entire road are already complaining about the lack of variety in the scenery.
A different part of the world: tire shops are now gomerias (quick: what were they called before? Vulcanizadoras, or llanterias. Good job!) Does this mean that tires (which used to be llantas and then became nuematicos) are now gomers? Inquiring minds… nah!
Past 45 degrees south; we are halfway to the South Pole. Then 46 degrees; they are coming quickly now, since we are pretty much shooting straight south. Scurrying sheep and estancias are increasingly common, along with guanacos.
We stop for fuel and water at a YPF station (they are huge and frequent); there is a water faucet and Rick gets the tank mostly filled before he realizes that it’s hot water and the sign says it’s for travelers’ mate jugs. Talk about conveniences!
We are seeing the occasional oilrig and are reminded that the most recent developments along this coastline were after oil was discovered. Comodoro Rivadavia, Caleta Olivia, Rio Gallegos, all big oil towns. All the towns use the same street names; all the houses have huge satellite dishes (DirecTV). Pickup trucks rule.
On southward – more frequent rhea sightings (these are the guys that look a lot like ostriches); they have a slew of chicks scurrying behind and are rather clueless about how to get out of your way! We spend a lovely, quiet night out of the wind on a beach (beneath a bluff) north of the town of Puerto San Julián. Then the next day we stopped in town for a bit, and liked what we saw. It’s a nice and tidy little town of about 6,000 happy folks looking to have you stay a few days on your way north or south.
Crossing the 49th parallel (the Canadian border up north) – and then the 50th. More sheep and rheas and guanacos. Next stop was meant to be a visit to the national park at Monte León, newest on the Argentine coast. It’s a wildlife bonanza, we had been told, and also has some very interesting rock structures. But… we arrived at the turnoff in driving rain and temperatures of 40 degrees; it required 20 kms in on a gravel (muddy) road; we decided to pass and go on. The days were catching up with us, too; we now had less than a week to get to Ushuaia, and considerable miles yet to cover. Next time.
51st parallel – the landscape is changing some; more color in the pampas, more grasses and wildflowers, and even a couple of flamingos in a small pond area. Camped the night along the Rio Gallegos, just west of the town of the same name.
Just to keep you up to date, we had an easy time of it at these border crossings. Back into Chile always gives me the willies, but the inspector was kind and gentle with me. I gave her a carrot offering, and then in poking around in the fridge she found some quartered apples I’d forgotten. I thought she’d snatch them right up, but she only wanted me to core them. This seemed amazingly logical to us, as the seeds could cause problems later on; why don’t other BBs behave so well? And the ferry ride was fun. It takes about 15 minutes, and you have to be careful getting on and off, but we had no problems. We’ll see what happens when we return; we will take this same ferry boat when we leave TdelF. The entire process of leaving Argentina, entering Chile, taking the ferry, leaving Chile, and entering Argentina again took us seven hours, including a stop for lunch. It was 85 miles.
Once back on track, we were picking up steam, getting closer to the end. And, miraculously, the countryside soon became more interesting. First we saw scrubby trees and more color in the grasses along the roadside. The land began to look more fertile and less barren. We saw fewer sheep and more cattle and horses (even with some gaucho riders). These were big, sturdy horses. And then the mountains began to peek over the flatlands.
We passed through the funky but cute little town of Tolhuin, which has the most incredible bakery within at least a thousand miles, Panaderia La Unión (thank you, Syd and Sharon, for making sure we didn’t miss this treat). Tolhuin is on the edge of lovely, long Lago Fagnano (also called Kami), the first large body of water we had seen (other than the South Atlantic itself) since leaving the Bariloche area. Surrounded by trees and mountains, it was a welcome sight.
Knowing that you start back north along this same road, and anxious to get to Ushuaia, we didn’t linger long, and arrived in Ushuaia an hour or so later. The end of the road. The southernmost city in the world. Our goal for the last 18 months. We were here.
You may remember that we had a deadline to meet – friends were coming through on a round-the-Horn cruise on January 29; we made it with time to spare and met them coming ashore. It was delightful; much hugging and picture-taking and sharing of experiences. Too cool!
We have spent two days in the national park here, which is wild and lovely. White daisies are in bloom along the streams, and the fields are full of the same tiny wildflowers we saw in the alpine areas of far northern Canada. We wandered a trail that led out into a bog. Now I like bogs; there are tiny berries, and wee plants; mushrooms, too. We took lots of pictures in the park; you can see how “fall” color is already arriving.
We found a quiet meadow where we camped, all alone except for a small herd of horses that were grazing the meadow and totally unfazed by our presence. There is a narrow gauge train that comes part way into the park, and it went right past our campsite; we exchanged waves with the conductor.
We ended our visit to Ushuaia with a gathering of several fellow travelers in a camping area beside a stream, a short distance out of town. We were seven coaches representing the countries of France, Holland, Austria, Switzerland, Colombia, Australia and, of course, the United States of America. We celebrated our joint achievement with an asado, sharing experiences and wine throughout a very chilly (46 degrees) afternoon and evening. We all were proud of what we had accomplished, but already preparing for the sights still ahead of us. Our tales were similar, but each person’s journey had been unique. It was a very pleasant day; we parted the next morning with promises to see each other again “up the road.”
As always, our best wishes to you all. Kathy, Rick and our intrepid Tiger.
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